The topic of ethnic skin care often brings us to the thought of different skin color. But the thing is, there is much more in it. It is known that various ethnic groups own different skin type features. These features actually define the kind of skin care regimen which will be the best for each person. So, Asian skin has yellowish undertone and known to be smoother than other skin types.
Also Asians are likely to suffer from dark spots which develop with aging process, so their skin needs exfoliation to minimize pore size and even out skin tone. Another problem is Asian skin type tends to scarring and hyperpigmentation after harsh treatments like laser.
Asian skin peculiarities:
1. Asian skin inclined to sensitivity
People with Asian skin type are likely to have irritations, because external skin layer or stratum corneum is thinner, comparing to skin types of other ethnic groups. Thus, skin is sensitive to chemicals and environmental factors that can break up the skin’s pH balance.
Knowing this, it is important to pay attention to products and treatments applied the to the skin, because the skin may react unpredictably to rough treatments like acidic chemical solutions or peelings.
2. Asian skin is prone to scarring
Due to the fact Asian skin has thinner stratum corneum; it is genetically predisposed to scar more easily than other skin types.
So be aware, that applying severe skin resurfacing techniques such as laser resurfacing you are likely to suffer from scarring.
3. Asian skin and hyperpigmentation problem
Skin has more melanin (photo-protective pigment) and has more (than other ethnic groups) pigmentary disorders like melasma, freckles, hyperpigmentation, lentigines.
Thus, sunscreen is a must to be used. Also it’s better to apply products with gentle skin lightening features from your early twenties.
4. Asian skin is likely to lose moisture
According to researches, Asian skin has the highest Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) index. TEWL shows the water loses through the skin under non-sweating conditions.
Thus, skin drying treatments aren’t for Asians. They need more skin hydration, so the best choice is a moisturizer containing water-binding ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
5. Asian skin gets oily more easily
It is known, that Asian skin is oilier compared to other skin types due to the fact it has more sebaceous glands.
That’s why, asian skin needs exfoliation once or twice a week because it may get clogged. Moreover, try to avoid harsh products; they may strip away natural skin lipids and cause oily skin.
Asian skin lightening features:
Nowadays there is a wide range of skin lightening products in form of pills, soaps, lotions, and creams. The mechanism of permanent lightening involves action of the agents like hydroquinone which decrease the amount of melanin. Besides, whitening creams usually include UV block to protect from dangerous sun influence on the skin.
Usually skin-lightening treatments that lead to decreasing or block melanin production inhibit tyrosinase. It is common to apply combination of gels or topical lotions that contain melanin-reducing ingredients together with a sunscreen and a prescription retinoid. Taking to consideration skin reaction, exfoliants can be applied in the form of topical cosmetics or lasers or chemical peels.
Sunscreen:
This is a product applied to prevent skin from sun damage and/or darkening caused by ultraviolet rays. There are also sunscreens that can be used to lighten skin. Sunblock is a must to be used regularly.
Topical treatments:
Hydroquinone
According to dermatologists, Hydroquinone is considered to be a safer, more successful and cheaper choice comparing to deep peel procedures or lasers.
It is available in 2% (cosmetics) to 4% (or more) concentrations (allowed with physician or by prescription), can be applied alone or together with tretinoin 0.05% to 0.1%.
Hydroquinone is a powerful melanin production inhibitor. It prevents skin from creating skin color causing substance. Hydroquinone only breaks the synthesis and production of melanin, it doesn’t bleach the skin.
Pay attention: Hydroquinone has been forbidden in number of countries (like France) because of the risk of having cancer.
It can be bought in United States as an over-the-counter drug, in case the concentration is less than 2 percent.
Hydroquinone should be used in small concentration or better avoid in case of Asian skin lightening.
Arbutin
There are number of alternative lighteners that are derivatives of hydroquinone. For example: bearberry extract, Mitracarpus scaber extract, mulberry, white mulberry and paper mulberry. They have arbutin (technically known as hydroquinone-beta-D-glucoside) as their component; the last one may reduce melanin production. According to dermatologists, pure forms of arbutin (alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, and deoxy-arbutin) are more powerful in skin lightening process.
It is also known as rather safe lightening agent.
Retinoids
According to researches, tretinoin and other retinoids can be successful in treating skin discolorations. Retinoids usually influence through skin exfoliation decreasing and by stimulating skin rejuvenation. There is a risk of skin dryness.
Retinoids can be applied to get rid of hyperpigmentation problems. But pay attention to use cautiously to not to lead to Asian skin dehydration or irritation.
Alpha hydroxy acids
The most researched forms of Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are lactic acid and glycolic acid. That is because their molecular size provides successful penetration into the upper layers of skin. It is commonly thought that the AHAs concentration of 4% to 15% won’t provide successful melanin production reduce. And moreover it won’t bleach skin discolorations in that manner.
A widespread belief is that AHAs activate cell turnover and help to get rid of unhealthy or abnormal layers of external skin cells (exfoliation) where the hyperpigmented cells accumulation is possible.
But according to other researches, it was proofed that lactic and glycolic acids can reduce melanin production apart from playing a role of exfoliant on skin.
Similarly to laser treatments, alpha hydroxy acid peels (applying 50% concentrations or higher) can help to get rid of skin discolorations. Pay attention that only experienced physician is allowed to conduct these procedures.
There are lighter peels which can be applied in order to get rid of enormous pigmentation or tan. They should be applied together with good moisturizer. Be aware, they may lead to Asian skin irritation.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid is known to be a side-product during the fermentation process of malting rice for apply in sake (the Japanese rice wine) production. According to researches kojic acid can be helpful in reducing melanin production. But it is known to be an unstable element in cosmetic formulations. Kojic acid can change color (become brown) and lose its power because of unlight influence. Kojic dipalmitate is usually used by cosmetic companies as an alternative due to the fact it is more constant in formulations. But there are no data proving kojic dipalmitate being as successful as kojic acid, even though it is a good antioxidant.
It is rather safe ingredient, so it can be applied to Asian skin.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is an element of grains, like rye, wheat and, barley. It is usually used in cream formulation at 20 per cent concentration. Commonly, Azelaic acid is applied to deal with acne but according to some researches, it is also successful against skin discolorations. And other research has shown Azelaic acid can reduce melanin production.
It is rather safe ingredient, so it can be applied to Asian skin.
Glutathione
Except being the master antioxidant, Glutathione also has skin lightening features, which makes it rather popular in Asian countries such as the Philippines, where applying glutathione in different forms (soaps, capsules, lotions, tablets, and intravenous / intramuscular injections) is a normal thing. Glutathione reduce melanin synthesis thus it is a good competitor to other products.
It is rather safe ingredient.
Laser treatments
Ablative and nonablative lasers may have a tangible effect. But the results are not always satisfying. There are problem cases reported (like hypo- or hyperpigmentation).
You should be aware that these type laser treatments are more likely to cause problems for patients with darker skin tones. They may lead to Asian skin scarring.
It is advisable to avoid laser resurfacing or get an experienced physician to conduct the procedure.